Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Bunaken Beach Resort

Note:  This post was started on Monday, finished on Tuesday...
Today is the last day of "Spring Break" here in Lippo Village, and kids all over are scrambling to finish their homework.  In my home there's a lot of printing off the internet, cutting and gluing as posters are assembled to be handed in tomorrow.  The hot season seems to have descended upon us and so it's actually nice to be indoors, with all the doors closed and the a/c on, listening to the kids work hard.  Tris has just returned from a golf game and he and I are simply savouring the last few hours of idleness.  We did go on a trip for the holidays, but returned with 4 days of freedom remaining.  Lots of time to continue the relaxing we started in North Sulawesi.

Our trip began on my mom's birthday, April 16th (unfortunately mom was still in Canada though).  We flew out with the Weedas and the Mercers (the latter would head to the same destinations, only mirrored dates) and landed in Manado in the evening.  Although it was dark and I was a bit apprehensive of boating at night, our ride to Bunaken Island was a dream.  It was a clear, starry night with a full moon and puffy white clouds.  As we sat on the roof of the wooden vessel, we all chatted and laughed and reminded each other that this was truly a night to glue into our memory banks.

On the other side, we were welcomed by Bunaken Beach Resort staff who were running about preparing for their boss' wedding, to be held the next day.  At one point we spoke with the bride-to-be about my unique dietary needs and she seemed as calm as the ocean we'd just rode in on.  After a long travel day, the Whites and Weedas all headed to their rooms (Lehmans had arrived earlier and were already asleep) and under a single sheet each, feel asleep to silence.

The next day, sitting in front of Tris' and my cement hut, overlooking the ocean and the mountains beyond (for any West Coast Canadians reading, it was very much like being in the Quatsino Sound area), I called my mom to wish her a happy birthday.   I described where I was sitting as a little piece of "primitive paradise," not only because of the beauty but because of the quiet.  That was all to change for a little while.

At around 7 am the wedding sound system was set up, and the man in charge of the 12-speaker sound system began to adjust for the 2 pm wedding.  After a few hours of what sounded like "serenitY, serenitY, serenitY" (how ironic) coming through the speakers, the volume was increased and they began to play pop songs. Not bad, except that when the actual wedding occurred, our entire group was so overwhelmed with the noise (the volume was increased even more during the wedding, we're sure of it) that instead of participating as originally intended, we headed off to the nearby village for some quiet.  So much for our anticipated first day of laying on the beach, listening to people chatting, babies crying (little Aliya just turned one and we anticipated some baby noises on this trip) and watching the tide go out.  We were able to snorkel a little, though it was awkward walking through the guests in our bathing suits and gear to get to the ocean. I admit that I was a little disappointed, because had the volume been lower, we all agreed later that it would have been fun to head into the wedding crowd, chat with the guests, and to eat some of the buffet (but not the dog-rat stew!). Thankfully, true to the resort host's word, the party ended at 6:30 and we were able to eat wedding buffet leftovers in quiet.

Aside from the unanticipated wedding, we enjoyed the resort. The adults (except the Lehmans with their little ones) had their 'love huts' along the ocean, complete with a/c, fans, a hammock and further out, an area with a table & deck chairs to call their own, the boys their own room, and Abby and Hope had theirs (ok, a little scary for mom to have Abby in a room on her own but everyone else was fine with it so I went with the flow.  All went just fine, just like all the other adults said it would).  The snorkeling was outstanding.  As you swam out from the beach the water was incredibly warm, then it cooled a bit and coral appeared. Further out the coral dropped off into nothingness.  Mysteriously freaky.  I missed the sea turtles but others said that they saw them hanging around the drop off.

There was one time that was a bit scary, and that was when Janet, while snorkeling alongside me, said she had tingling all down her right leg and arm.  After a few moments of indecision, we headed back just in case it was something medical (we hate to admit it but we're all getting to the age where we have to consider that tingling may be more than just a result of sitting on your feet too long!).  Once on land, she found she had swollen patches along her arm and leg.  Turns out that she had swum through a cloud of little electric-blue plankton and had a reaction to their stings.  We all had our own turns swimming through them but there were no further reactions.  Regrettably, although they were beautiful, I never stuck around long enough to inspect them.

Bunaken is a small island with very little to do but relax.  The options are snorkeling, boating, taking a glass bottomed boat out to the reefs (which we did), scuba diving, walking or riding a motorcycle to either end of the village, and reading.  If you need anything to eat, there aren't any warungs (small roadside stands) or hotel restaurants or anything.  Very much a camping atmosphere so if you don't like roughing it a bit, this isn't a good place to go.  However, if you are like our family of four and you like to experience life quite simply, this resort was perfect.  The food was simple, served on time, and there were always cold drinks on hand.  The rooms were clean enough with very basic plumbing and no hot water.  The staff were helpful--especially when our three teenage boys got lost (a different post to come)--and although I think I freaked them out with my Celiac diet, they tried to accommodate our needs whenever we brought any up.

Our stay lasted 3 days and 3 nights, and by the time it was time to go, we were looking forward to our next stop:  the cool mountains and Highlands Resort, Kinilow (or Tomohon)..  We packed up by 9 am, loaded up the wooden boat and headed back to Manado.

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